Guests included several athletes–Vernon Davis (49ers), William Beatty (Giants)–which gives a hint as to who fits well into these clothes: men with broad shoulders, trim waists, long backs. They’re not metro or foppish, but they care about looking good.
Standout pieces included a suede quilted lamb vest, a spruce-green fairisle shawl collar sweater and wool herringbone striped trousers (above) and a laser quilted bomber vest with charcol trousers (left).
Creative Director John Crocco was inspired by a “quiet nonchalance”–the idea of volume versus mass, he said. He also staged a cute ending – the models did their final walk clad in ivory longjohns and longsleeve henley t-shirts.
All photos taken by Daniel Cavazos
FASHION DESIGNER: PORTER GREY
The next show was Richard Chai’s Love. We were eagerly awaiting this show since it was our first time seeing his women’s line, and because we’re always impressed by his men’s collections. And by the look at the front-row seaters: Vogue‘s Virginia Smith, Elle‘s Joe Zee and the New York Times‘ Cathy Horyn, we were in for a treat. Think again. First off, aside from the heavy-hitters, the show was half empty, only to be filled by the standing room crowd. Either people decided to skip this show, or the PR folks were clueless organizers. Second, the clothes were simply boring. What we saw was drab colors and outsized fits.
Next up we went backstage for New York-based men’s fashion line Duckie Brown. Designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver delivered a UK-inspired line full of baggy pants, tweed coats, loose-fitting cardigans, and even a pearl sweatshirt. This line was so refreshing and is a real look at city life, either that or perhaps we’re just tired of seeing dudes in tight jeans. Check out the backstage footage of this show, at least to see the male models hamming it up for the camera.
A contemporary line found at the likes of Shopbop, Porter Grey has a slightly girly vibe, but with an interesting edge. There were a lot of sculpted coats, richly colored and printed silk dresses, and sexier fitted dresses with cutout details. It was kind of something-for-everyone, but when it all looks this good, who cares?
Late start aside, a very pregnant Mara Hoffman herself presided over her Thursday-afternoon presentation, which included a live band and carried a very mystical-spiritual vibe. She complemented her signature kaleidoscopic prints with thick knits and detail like braiding, cutouts, and hoods. Fans will snap up the sexier maxi dresses and cozy sweater jackets.
By the time I got to Jonathan Simkhai‘s presentation, I had had two glasses of wine and was eager to continue celebrating at the IFB Conference after-party. So it was fortunate that the models were rotating spots so quickly–I was able to see the entire collection in about 5 minutes. The problem was that I didn’t give the collection a proper look; thankfully, that’s why I take pictures of everything! Simkhai’s reform-school-girls of spring have evolved into a more sophisticated, refined level for fall. There are still beautifully tailored pieces and a strong preppy influence, but Simkhai added sexy cutout dresses and richer-looking fabrics to the mix.
Finally, on Tuesday evening, Dannijo held a roaring ’20s–meets–True Grit presentation to show their increasingly intricate and layered jewelry. Littered with Swarovski crystals and featuring bold Art Deco shapes, the line is evolving from its edgy, piled-on-chains roots. These are definitely statement pieces, but I liked that they showed them with not-so-basic clothing, proving that jewelry doesn’t have to overpower the rest of one’s outfit.