(NEW YORK) Christian Cota
Terra Incognita was the title of Christian Cota‘s fall show inspired by seventies rock climbers, Alpine ski trips, and traditional Tibetan garb. The designer’s recent travels may have something to do with his exploratory theme. “A couple years ago I went to Mount Etna in Sicily. The temperature is so extreme at the top of the volcano and there’s a real spiritual aspect to dressing,” said Cota, post show. The fall lineup, packed with plenty of earthy hued knits, back-pack ready coats, and utilitarian flats, was a slight departure from what we’re used to seeing from the young designer. “I think the whole process of being a CFDA nominee and talking to my mentors pushed me to do more outer-wear and really expand on day wear. I didn’t want to abandon evening wear but I wanted to join the two worlds together,” he explained. Breaking new ground, Cota edited down his signature prints and form-tailored dresses to make room for practical outdoor pieces: lambskin jackets, long wool coats with harness detailing, and nomadic wool pants. A handful of abstract animal print skirts and painted dresses mingled with the woodsy separates to create a cohesive collection revealing the depth of Cota’s unending talent.
Karen Elson, Sophia Coppola, Fergie, and Vanessa Hudgens took in Anna Sui‘s latest show front row and center. The Queen of boho conjured up a fall collection overflowing with her hippy dippy staples like black faux fur boleros, shaggy cream coats, floral print chiffon frocks, and burnout velvet shorts colored in electric blue and magenta. Fresh prints accented with psychedelic lime green sprinkled the beatnik runway, pulling inspiration from full moons, mod mosaics, and Gustav Klimt. A few jacquard parkas and capes (dyed in eggplant and navy) made honorable mention as did the tweed skirts and jackets that came as close to suiting as a Sui girl gets.
“I’m on the guest list!” shouted a diva over the loudspeaker. “Miss Thang, there is no guest list,” answered Lil’ Louis. Sound familiar? The “Lonely Club” single circa 1992 was the soundtrack for Jeremy Scott’s ’90’s-influenced party line shown at Milk Studios. “It’s all about getting dressed up and making an entrance. You’ve done your hair, you look good, you’re confident. Then you show up at the club and it’s like bam! ” said Scott. For his muse, the flamboyantly fun designer looked to 90’s raves. A cheeky pill pattern jumpsuit spoke to the underground drug scene in a literal sense; sequined minis emblazoned with “Milk Kills” and “Enjoy God” put a twist on classic slogans of yesterday. Models, dressed like Barbie’s rebellious younger sister (pre-rehab), strutted down the runway in four inch furry pink heels with matching bikini–presumably for day–and lightening bolt gowns in velvet for night. If Jeremy Scott wanted to make an entrance, he got his wish.