Milan Trend Report
- Maximal modernism – a new feel for pared down wearable shapes but rich in opulent fabrics and decorative detail led the way forward
- The Seventies have still got a hold on designers’ imaginations and indeed on ours – see Gucci’s uptown girls and the layers, sweeping coats, Lurex knits and flared trousers at Missoni
- Dolce & Gabbana married the boy-girl tend; the decorative with the pared down in a clever collection of “rude girl” outsize tailoring. Think trilby hats with star print and lace coquette dresses
- The richness of the Baroque influences Donatella Versace, Peter Dundas at Pucci and Roberto Cavalli
- For modernists, Raf Simons showed sleek ski pants and retro sweaters, damask silk Fifties couture feel cocoon suits, and swing-back jackets at Jil Sander
- The chicest way to show off this winter? Prada’s Sixties Courrèges-inspired, dropped waist dresses with graphic prints and big bold buttons teamed with snake and suede boots, as well as the fishscale sequinned shifts and shaggy eco fur coats in sherbet shades
- Following seasons of cosy rusticity and utility wear for day, and thigh-skimming cocktailwear for night, London designers are now focussing on elaborately detailed and seriously grown-up chic.
- There is a fetishistic edge to the beautifully crafted clothes – see Giles, Topshop Unique, Antonio Berardi and Marios Schwab.
- An obsession with straps and bandaging gives dramatic tension.
- Colour: between Burberry’s Crayola brights and Louise Gray’s foil-dotted plaid mohair, there is a resplendent feast of colour. Jonathan Saunders’ William Morris-inspired prints in turquoise, coral and leaf green were a real standout.
- Silhouettes have simplified and purified. This is a season of evening trousers matched with fancy blouses, of demure sheath-like dresses with high necks and long sleeves.
- Great new looks for modernists included the long tunic over flaring trousers in plays of sheer and print.
New York Trends – Autumn/Winter 2011-12
- A new feel for richness, detail and sumptuous fabrics flourished through the NYC collections taking many shapes and forms – see Proenza Schouler, Rodarte and Thakoon
- At Donna Karan and Victoria Beckham new shapes emerged like the wrap skirt, the midi length and a u-turn of the body con va-va-voom trend that dominated last winter.
- Androgyny was the calling card with Alexander Wang and Phillip Lim delivering luxe utility
- The romance with the Seventies is still in the air – as seen at Tommy Hilfiger, Michael Kors and Marc by Marc Jacobs